Origin

• The guinea pig originates from Peru.

• · They arrived in Europe towards the end of the 16th century. They didn't reach Britain until the mid 17th century.

Life expectancy

• · 4 - 5 years.

Temperament / Behaviour

• · They tend to be quite timid and are easily frightened

• · If handled regularly when young they can become quite docile and tame

• · A lot of the guinea pigs we get at the RSPCA can be very nervous. Although they can become friendlier if handled regularly, however, if they are nervous they shouldn't be handled too much as they are susceptible to stress.
• Guinea pigs love fruit (not citrus fruits) and vegtables (Not lettuce), especially dandelion leaves and can often be won over with this.

Company

• · Guinea pigs live in large family colonies in their natural habitat and because of their timidity they shouldn't be kept on their own if possible.

Mixing / Introducing

• A lot of people come to the RSPCA looking for a companion for their guinea pig. Again the easiest combination to mix is a neutered male with a female or two females.
• Two males will not mix and often upon reaching sexual maturity, two brothers will even fight.

• Guinea pigs can have a rabbit for company although this is not normally recommended because guinea pigs are easily bullied because of their size.
• We would only re-home a guinea pig with a rabbit if they came into the centre together, or to live with a rabbit which has been brought up with and always lived with guinea pigs. In these circumstances there must be plenty tubes and hidey-holes for the guinea pig that the rabbit cannot fit in to.

• · When mixing guinea pigs we suggest that it is done on neutral territory. If they are going to fight they will normally do it straight away. If they are introduced early on in the day and they seem to be getting on okay together they are normally all right to leave in the hutch together over night.
• It is quite normal for guinea pigs to chatter their teeth at each other, it is a warning sign. They often do this when they first meet. For the first few days the guinea pigs will quite often stay at opposite ends of the hutch until they get used to one another and form a bond.
• · If they are not getting on it is quite obvious. They may chase one another or guard food and bedding.

• Unlike most other small furries it is possible to introduce a single guinea pig into an established group.

Diet

• What we feed: A complete Guinea Pig food e.g. Super Excel Guinea Pig and hay.

• Treats: Fresh fruit and vegetables, dandelion and grass. Guinea pigs cannot make vitamin C naturally so they need fresh food daily to provide this.

• Do not feed: Deadly nightshade, lobelia, woody nightshade, elder, yew,   rhododendron, privet, foxglove, lily of the valley, lupin, iris.

Accommodation

• Minimum hutch size: 100cm x 50cm. Minimum run size: 150cm x 100cm.

• Height isn't particularly important for guinea pigs.  

• The hutch needs to be raised off the ground to protect them from the dampness of the ground.

• The hutch needs to be in a sheltered place so it is protected from the wind, rain and hot sunshine.

• · Guinea pigs must also have a secure run so they can exercise and eat grass, important for their vitamin C supply.

• There needs to be a sheltered area in the run, ideally this could be the hutch, but if not a plastic / wooden box (perhaps a cat carrier) should be lined with newspaper and hay. This is so the guinea pigs have somewhere to hide, get away from the dampness of the ground and escape sun or wind.
• Drainpipes and flowerpots also make good toys for a guinea pig.

• · Guinea pigs cannot cope well with the wet or extreme whether conditions. Ideally their hutch should be brought into a shed / garage during the winter months. If this is not possible plenty of bedding must be provided and the front of the hutch covered up. It is not a good idea to keep bringing the guinea pig in and out of the house. It should either be brought into the house for the whole of the winter or not at all otherwise it cannot acclimatize and will suffer from the cold more.

Maintenance

• Food and water must be changed daily.

• Hay supplied daily. Bedding should be checked daily and urine and faeces removed.

• Daily access to the run if it is not wet or cold.

• Hutches will need cleaning at least twice weekly. We take out any urine and faeces on a daily basis and give the hutch a good clean out once a week.

• A weekly health check by an adult.

IN CASES OF CRUELTY, NEGLECT OR IN AN EMERGENCY TEL: (24 HOUR)